Rolex Submariner Date 40mm Black Dial Two-Tone Yellow Gold & Steel Oyster Bracelet 16613 | Vintage 1999 Full Set

Description

The Definitive Two-Tone Submariner of Its Era

When Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953, it set out to build the ultimate professional diving instrument — a tool watch first, a luxury object second. The two-tone Submariner changed that hierarchy, proving that a professional dive watch could also be unmistakably, unapologetically opulent. Reference 16613, produced from 1988 through 2009 across a remarkable 21-year production run, became the definitive expression of that idea. Rolex called the combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold “Yellow Rolesor,” and no reference embodied it more completely than the 16613 — the last of the classic, pre-ceramic, five-digit two-tone Submariners. This 1999 example is a full set piece, offered at a compelling price for one of the most collectible sport watch configurations in Rolex history.

Yellow Rolesor: 904L Oystersteel and Solid 18k Yellow Gold

The 40mm Oyster case is built in Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel — a high-grade alloy that resists corrosion more effectively than the 316L steel used by most competing manufacturers and takes a deeper, more mirror-like polish. Yellow gold accents are applied throughout: the bezel ring, the crown, and the center links of the Oyster bracelet are all crafted from solid 18k yellow gold, giving the watch its distinctive warm, two-tone character. The case profile is the classic pre-Supercase design — with thinner, more elegantly sweeping lugs and a slimmer overall wrist presence than any modern Submariner — giving the 16613 a refinement that the broader, more muscular successor references can never quite replicate. At approximately 13mm thick, the watch sits cleanly and proportionally under a shirt cuff in a way modern Submariners simply don’t. The case is sealed by a Triplock screw-down crown — identifiable by the three dots beneath the Rolex coronet — delivering a water resistance rating of 300 meters / 1,000 feet and a 50% improvement over earlier Submariner generations.

The Black Aluminum Unidirectional Bezel

The 16613 is available in two bezel configurations: black and blue. This example carries the black variant — designated 16613LN (Lunette Noir) — which delivers a more understated, stealth aesthetic compared to the famous “Bluesy” configuration. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with a black aluminum insert, graduated across 60 minutes and marked with gold-painted numerals and pip markings. It turns with 120 precise clicks and locks firmly in place between adjustments, a safety-critical feature on a professional diving instrument where a counterclockwise misread could underestimate bottom time. The aluminum bezel insert is a feature entirely absent from any two-tone Submariner produced after 2009 — the subsequent 116613 moved exclusively to the scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic insert — making the aluminum bezel a defining characteristic of the 16613’s vintage character, and one that will only grow more distinct with time.

The Black Dial

The gloss black dial is fitted with applied 18k yellow gold dot and baton hour markers, all filled with Super-LumiNova luminescent material for strong low-light legibility. The dial is signed “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date / Submariner / 1000ft=300m / Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” — the full vintage four-liner designation that confirms the COSC chronometer status of the Caliber 3135 inside. A date window sits at 3 o’clock beneath a Cyclops magnifying lens, adding the practical date function that distinguishes this reference from its no-date sibling. As a 1999-production piece, this example is among the earliest to carry Super-LumiNova lume rather than the tritium found on earlier production, placing it at the transitional intersection of the 16613’s own history.

The Two-Tone Oyster Bracelet

The watch is fitted to Rolex’s three-link Oyster bracelet (ref. 93253), with brushed 904L steel outer links flanking polished solid 18k yellow gold center links — a construction that echoes the warmth and contrast of the case and bezel across the full width of the wrist. The bracelet closes with a steel and gold flip-lock clasp. As a late-1990s production piece, this example sits at the point in 16613 production history where the bracelet is equipped with solid end links, a significant upgrade over the hollow end links of earlier production pieces and one that meaningfully improves the bracelet’s wrist presence and durability.

Powered by Caliber 3135

At the heart of this watch is the Rolex Caliber 3135, introduced in 1988 and one of the most respected automatic movements ever produced. The 3135 features 31 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and carries COSC Superlative Chronometer certification for accuracy within industry-leading tolerances. A quickset date function allows the date to be advanced independently by pulling the crown to the first position — a convenience over earlier Submariners that required cycling the hour hand through a full 12-hour rotation to change the date. The movement offers approximately 48 hours of power reserve and features Rolex’s Microstella regulation system on the balance wheel, with four screws symmetrically positioned along the balance for fine-tuning positional accuracy. The Parachrom Bleu hairspring provides increased resistance to shocks and temperature variations, and experts broadly regard the 3135 as one of the most bulletproof mechanical movements ever to power a sport watch — so well-engineered that Rolex continued to use it across multiple flagship references for over three decades.

Condition & What’s Included

This 1999 example is offered in good vintage condition, with wear marks consistent with careful, respectful use over its lifetime. It comes as a full set, with box and accompanying papers included. No specific detail about polishing history has been noted.

Payment & Shipping

This watch ships from San Francisco at $9,000 fully shipped. Payment is accepted via bank transfer, Zelle, and cryptocurrency. Leave a message for further details or additional photos.

Why This Reference Stands Out

The 16613 occupies a strategically compelling position in the 2026 secondary market. As a well-maintained example, it can frequently be acquired for less than the cost of a modern all-steel Submariner while offering the added prestige of solid 18k yellow gold case and bracelet accents, the last-generation aluminum bezel character, and the proven reliability of the Caliber 3135. The classic pre-Supercase proportions and slimmer lug profile have become increasingly sought after as the collector market cycles back toward cleaner, more elegant case designs. For the buyer who wants a two-tone Submariner with authentic vintage character, real gold accents, and a full-set provenance, the 1999 16613 remains one of horology’s most compelling propositions — a masterpiece of pre-ceramic Rolex design that no subsequent reference has managed to fully replace.