Rolex Submariner No-Date 40mm Black Tritium Dial Oyster Bracelet 14060 “U Serial” | 1997 Full Set

Description

A Piece of Pure Submariner History — The Original No-Date Reference

In 1953, the Rolex Submariner became one of the world’s first purpose-built professional dive watches. Over the seven decades since, it has evolved continuously — but never so dramatically as in the transition from the five-digit classic-case era to the current ceramic Maxi-case generation. The reference 14060 sits at the heart of that classic era: introduced in 1990 as the direct successor to the iconic 5513, it was the first no-date Submariner to feature a sapphire crystal and Triplock crown, yet retained the same fundamental case architecture that had defined the Submariner since the 5512 of 1959. This particular example, identified by its U-serial number as a 1997 production piece, is one of the later and more sought-after examples of the original 14060 reference — and comes offered as a full set with box and papers, a rarity for a watch of this age.

904L Oystersteel Case with the Classic Pre-Supercase Profile

The case measures 39.5mm across and is crafted from Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel — a high-corrosion-resistant alloy that takes a deeper, more lustrous polish than the 316L steel used by most of the watch industry. The case profile is the pre-Supercase design: thinner, more elegantly swept lugs and a slimmer wrist presence than any Submariner produced after the 114060 of 2012, giving this reference a refined, proportionate look on the wrist that modern Submariners cannot replicate. The case is sealed with a screw-down Triplock crown — identifiable by the three dots beneath the Rolex coronet — delivering water resistance to 300 meters / 1,000 feet. A flat sapphire crystal sits flush over the dial, a feature not available on the predecessor 5513, and one that marked a significant durability improvement for the 14060 when it was introduced. The drilled lug holes that appear on this example are another defining characteristic of the 14060 family — the last Submariner generation to feature them — making bracelet and strap changes straightforward without any specialized tools.

The “Fat Flat 4” Aluminum Bezel — A Collector’s Hallmark

The black aluminum unidirectional rotating bezel on a 1997 U-serial 14060 carries one of the most enthusiastically discussed details in all of Submariner collecting: the “Fat Flat 4” font. The “4” marker on the bezel of this generation is wider and rounder than the slimmer numeral that appeared on later production, and it has become a genuine collector identifier — a detail that immediately distinguishes the earlier, more characterful 14060 bezel from the later “Slim Four” insert found on the 14060M that replaced it in 1999. The bezel rotates in a single direction only — critical for dive timing safety — clicking through 60 crisp increments and locking securely between positions. Aluminum bezels develop unique patina over years of exposure, acquiring a warmth and individual character that the modern Cerachrom ceramic insert can never replicate, making well-preserved examples like this increasingly prized among collectors.

The Tritium Dial — The Most Prized Configuration

The gloss black dial of this 1997 example is fitted with tritium luminous hour markers and hands — the radioactive but entirely safe luminescent material that Rolex used on its sport watches through the late 1990s, identified by the “SWISS-T<25” designation printed at 6 o’clock. The tritium dial is among the most sought-after details on any vintage or neo-vintage Submariner: as the lume ages, the tritium plots and hands develop a warm, creamy patina — a golden-ivory glow that is completely individual to each specific watch depending on how much light and heat it has experienced over its life. No two tritium dials age in exactly the same way, and as Rolex transitioned to non-radioactive Super-LumiNova in 1999 with the 14060M, the tritium dial effectively became a fixed point in time — a detail that is now permanently and definitively associated with the charm and authenticity of the five-digit Submariner era.

The dial carries two lines of text: “Submariner” and “1000ft=300m” — the clean, uncluttered two-liner configuration that collectors overwhelmingly prefer over the later four-liner versions. No date window, no Cyclops lens, no asymmetry. The symmetry of the no-date dial has been considered the purest expression of the Submariner concept since the very first references of the 1950s, and on this example it reads exactly as Rolex intended: as a precise, legible, purposeful instrument.

The Oyster Bracelet

This example is fitted with the period-correct 93150 Oyster bracelet — a three-link construction in 904L steel with the characteristic hollow center links of this production era and a folding Oysterlock clasp. The bracelet’s lighter, slightly more flexible feel compared to modern Submariner bracelets is a characteristic that divides opinion between those who prefer the heft of modern solid-link bracelets and those who find the older construction more comfortable for long daily wear. The drilled lugs of the 14060 case make switching to a rubber or NATO strap — a very popular choice for this reference among collectors — entirely straightforward.

Powered by Caliber 3000

The original 14060 is powered by the Caliber 3000 — the no-date sibling of the 3035 that powered the Date Submariner — introduced when the reference launched in 1990 as the first movement to bring the 14060 up to 28,800 vibrations per hour, the same high-beat frequency as modern Rolex movements. The 3000 runs on an automatic bidirectional winding rotor, with approximately 50 hours of power reserve, and is a robustly built movement that watchmakers broadly regard as highly reliable and straightforward to service. Its predecessor in the 5513 ran at a lower frequency, making the 3000’s introduction a meaningful accuracy and regulation improvement. For collectors who prioritize the most historically authentic 14060 experience — tritium dial, Fat Flat 4 bezel, Caliber 3000 — the U-serial represents the sweet spot: late enough in production to benefit from all of the 14060’s refinements, but early enough to carry all of the period details that make the original reference so distinctive.

Condition & What’s Included

This 1997 U-serial example is in very good condition and comes as a full set with original Rolex box and papers — an increasingly uncommon find for a 14060 of this age. Full-set examples of the original 14060 trade at a meaningful premium over watch-only pieces, and this listing includes a 14-day refund policy for added peace of mind.

Shipping & Payment

This watch ships from San Francisco at $6,900 fully shipped. Leave a message for further details or additional photos.

Why This Reference Stands Out

The original 14060 — not the 14060M, but the original Caliber 3000-powered, tritium-dialed reference — is the rarest and most collectible of the five-digit no-date Submariners, produced for just under a decade and increasingly difficult to find in well-preserved, full-set condition. A 1997 U-serial places this example among the very last production of the original reference before the movement upgrade and lume transition of 1999 — meaning it carries tritium plots, the Fat Flat 4 bezel, and the Caliber 3000 together in a single watch. For the collector who understands the significance of those three details in combination, this listing is exactly what years of searching leads to.