Rolex Datejust 36 Two-Tone Blue Tapestry Dial Jubilee Bracelet 16013 | Vintage 1986

Description

An ’80s Icon That Defined Two-Tone Luxury

First introduced in 1945, the Rolex Datejust holds the distinction of being the world’s first self-winding wristwatch to display the date automatically in a window on the dial — an innovation that reshaped the entire watch industry. Reference 16013, produced from the late 1970s through the late 1980s, represents one of the most beloved chapters in that story: the two-tone “Rolesor” Datejust that became a defining symbol of 1980s success and style. This particular example, produced in 1986, is a genuine piece of that era.

Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold Construction

The 36mm case is built in Rolex’s signature Rolesor construction, combining a stainless steel body with 18k yellow gold accents — a pairing Rolex pioneered to offer the durability of steel with the warmth and prestige of gold in a single watch. The stainless steel portions provide robustness and corrosion resistance, while the yellow gold elements add warmth, with the case finished in a combination of polished and brushed surfaces. An 18k yellow gold screw-down crown with the Twinlock double-waterproofness system seals the case, paired with a fluted stainless steel caseback that screws down using specialized Rolex tooling to maintain water resistance. The fluted bezel — crafted in solid 18k yellow gold — remains one of the most recognizable design signatures in the entire Datejust line, catching and reflecting light with every turn of the wrist.

The Blue Tapestry Dial

This reference is fitted with a richly textured blue tapestry dial, featuring fine vertical ridges machined into the dial surface that catch the light differently depending on the angle of the wrist — a dial-finishing technique distinctive to this era of Rolex production and increasingly prized by collectors today. Applied gold baton hour markers and dauphine hands sit atop the textured surface, with the date displayed in a window at 3 o’clock beneath the magnifying Cyclops lens. The dial is signed with the Rolex coronet, “Oyster Perpetual,” “Datejust,” and “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” — the full lineage of Rolex’s quality marks from this period.

The Jubilee Bracelet

The watch is fitted to Rolex’s five-piece-link Jubilee bracelet, originally created in 1945 alongside the Datejust itself and considered the model’s natural pairing ever since. Constructed in matching stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, the bracelet’s articulated five-link design delivers a notably comfortable, fluid feel on the wrist while echoing the two-tone theme of the case and bezel.

Powered by Caliber 3035

Inside the 16013 is the Caliber 3035, introduced in 1977 as a significant upgrade over its predecessor, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and featuring quickset date functionality — meaning the date can be adjusted independently by pulling the crown to the first position, rather than cycling the hour hand through a full 24-hour rotation as on earlier references. The movement is known for its robustness and accuracy, built with a Breguet overcoil hairspring for enhanced precision and stability, and a self-winding mechanism using a bidirectional rotor for efficient winding. It runs on 27 jewels and carries Rolex’s COSC Superlative Chronometer certification, with an approximate 48-hour power reserve. The case is fitted with a period-correct acrylic crystal, a hallmark of authentic vintage Rolex character that ages with a subtle warmth modern sapphire crystal doesn’t replicate.

Condition & What’s Included

This 1986-production example is in very good used condition, showing only minor, largely intangible scratches consistent with light, careful wear. It remains an excellent daily-wearable vintage piece, with the mechanics, dial, and case all presenting cleanly for a watch of its age.

Shipping & Guarantee

Every watch sold through The Crown Collection Watch ships fully insured with signature-required, worldwide delivery, and comes with our full authenticity guarantee.

Why This Reference Stands Out

The 16013 occupies a sweet spot in Datejust history: it’s the reference that introduced quickset date functionality to the two-tone Datejust line, it carries the increasingly hard-to-find acrylic crystal and tapestry dial finish that vintage collectors actively seek out, and at 36mm it wears as a genuinely versatile, all-occasion size that has come back into style as the market shifts away from oversized cases. A blue tapestry dial in particular is a rarer find than the more common champagne or silver variants, making this a standout pickup for collectors building out a Rolesor collection.