Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm Silver Dial 18k Yellow Gold Fluted Bezel Two-Tone Jubilee Bracelet 69173 | Vintage 1998 U-Serial Complete Full Set

The Definitive Lady’s Luxury Watch of the 1990s — Complete and Documented

The Rolex Lady-Datejust is one of the most enduring and widely celebrated women’s luxury watches ever made. Introduced in 1957 as the ladies’ counterpart to the original 1945 Datejust — itself the world’s first self-winding wristwatch to display the date automatically — the Lady-Datejust brought the same foundational innovation, the same construction philosophy, and the same Swiss chronometer-certified movement to a 26mm case sized for the feminine wrist. Reference 69173, produced from the late 1980s through the late 1990s, is the quintessential expression of the Lady-Datejust in the two-tone Yellow Rolesor configuration that defined the reference throughout its production run. This 1998 U-serial example — identifiable by the U-serial number as a genuine late 1990s production piece — comes as a complete, original full set with inner and outer boxes, hangtag (brick), polish cloth, and papers dated December 22nd, 1998. A complete set can add 15-30% to the value of an otherwise identical watch without documentation, making this one of the most compelling Lady-Datejust 69173 acquisitions currently available at this price point.

Yellow Rolesor: Oystersteel and Solid 18k Yellow Gold

The case construction of the 69173 offers 100 meters of water resistance, providing practical everyday durability despite its elegant appearance. The 26mm Oyster case is constructed from 904L stainless steel, with a Rolex logo on the 18k yellow gold crown and solid 18k yellow gold applied throughout the most visually prominent surfaces — the fluted bezel, the crown, and the center links of the Jubilee bracelet — in the Yellow Rolesor construction that brings warm gold character to the watch without the weight or cost of a solid gold case. The timeless two-tone construction means yellow gold brings warmth while steel keeps the overall weight low, approximately 74 grams with full links. The combination of brushed steel and polished yellow gold creates a visual layering that is simultaneously luxurious and practical — rich enough for a formal occasion, understated enough for every day. The combination of steel and 18k gold gives the 69173 a substantial weight that is difficult to replicate in counterfeits — the gold portions carry a rich, warm tone that fake gold cannot match.

The Solid 18k Yellow Gold Fluted Bezel

One of the most recognizable features of the 69173 is its fluted yellow gold bezel. Originally designed with a practical purpose — to grip and screw the bezel to the case, enhancing water resistance — the fluted pattern has evolved to become one of Rolex’s signature aesthetic elements. On the 69173, this 18k yellow gold bezel catches light beautifully, creating a distinctive shimmer that draws attention to the watch face. Each groove of the fluted bezel is individually finished to maximize light diffraction, and the warm yellow gold tone harmonizes naturally with the silver dial and yellow gold bracelet center links to create a fully cohesive, warm-toned aesthetic across the entire watch.

The Silver Dial — Clean, Classic, and Enduringly Versatile

The silver dial of this 69173 example is fitted with applied stick index hour markers in yellow gold with luminescent fills, paired with polished yellow gold hands that carry matching luminous inserts. The silver surface provides a clean, bright, high-contrast backdrop for the gold markers and hands, delivering excellent legibility that reads equally well in bright daylight and indoor lighting. The date is displayed at 3 o’clock beneath the Cyclops magnifying lens — the same lens that has been a Datejust signature since 1953. The silver index dial is one of the more understated and classically elegant configurations within the 69173 range, offering the versatility to pair with any outfit from business attire to evening wear without the additional visual complexity of diamond markers or coloured dials.

The Two-Tone Yellow Rolesor Jubilee Bracelet

The 69173 typically comes fitted with the iconic Jubilee bracelet — created specifically for the original Datejust in 1945 and considered its most historically appropriate and most comfortable pairing. The five-link Jubilee bracelet in two-tone Yellow Rolesor features brushed stainless steel outer links flanking polished solid 18k yellow gold center links, echoing the warmth and contrast of the case and bezel across the full length of the wrist. The Jubilee bracelet should have minimal play between links and a solid feel — the gold portions should have a rich, warm tone that counterfeit gold cannot match. The bracelet closes with a fold-over clasp and fits up to approximately a 6.5-inch wrist.

Powered by Caliber 2135 — The Quickset Lady-Datejust Movement

The Caliber 2135 is Rolex’s self-winding automatic movement with 29 jewels, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and COSC Superlative Chronometer certified. It features an instantaneous quickset date function, allowing the date to be advanced independently by pulling the crown to the first position — a meaningful convenience over earlier references where cycling the hour hand was required to change the date. The quickset convenience of the Caliber 2135 lets the wearer adjust the date independently — no more crown-spinning. The movement delivers approximately 40-42 hours of power reserve and is regarded by watchmakers as highly reliable and straightforward to service. As a 1998 U-serial production piece, the movement will likely benefit from a routine service by a qualified watchmaker given its age, which should be factored into the acquisition plan.

Condition & What’s Included

This 1998 U-serial example is in vintage condition, showing signs of wear on the case, bezel, and bracelet consistent with over two decades of life — the honest, character-rich patina of a genuine period piece rather than a polished and refinished example. Crucially, this example comes as a remarkably complete original set: inner and outer Rolex boxes, hangtag (brick), original polish cloth, and papers dated December 22nd, 1998 — a documentation chain that definitively confirms production year, confirms original configuration, and protects both the watch’s authenticity story and its long-term value. Full-set examples of the 69173 with dated papers are increasingly uncommon and consistently command a premium over watch-only pieces. Authenticity is fully guaranteed with reliable references on every watch sold through The Crown Collection Watch, and this listing comes with a 21-day refund policy for complete peace of mind.

Shipping & Contact

This watch ships at $3,999 fully shipped. Call us at +1 (719) 326-3726 or leave a message for further details or additional photos. Limited piece — only one available.

Why This Reference Stands Out

The Rolex Lady-Datejust 69173 holds a special place in the history of ladies’ luxury watches: it is one of the most collected vintage Lady-Datejust references, trading under $5,000 while sharing DNA with modern Lady-Datejusts. The price of a Rolex 69173 typically ranges from approximately $4,000 to $8,000 or more, depending on its condition, dial type, whether it includes the original box and papers, and current market demand. At $3,999 for a complete full-set U-serial example with dated papers and all original accessories, this listing is priced at the most accessible end of the market range for a significantly more documented and provenance-rich piece than most examples available at this price point. Birth-year gift potential is strong for this reference — serial number ranges cover late 1980s to late 1990s production, making a U-serial 1998 example an ideal birth-year gift for someone born in that period. For the collector who wants a fully documented, genuinely original example of one of the most important ladies’ Rolex references of the 20th century, this listing offers exceptional value and historical completeness in a single, limited opportunity.